Henri Montagny is a small grower and producer in Volnay that begin bottling some of his production in the 1950s. (Many of these early wines are apparently still outstanding.) They sell off most of their grapes, but keep the very best part for themselves. His daughter Marie-Pierre Cornu has made the wines since 2004, improving their quality through lutte raisoneé farming, total destemming, a double triage, cooling her fermentation tanks and extending her elevage.
The result is one of the most serious, substantial and age worthy village Volnays.
They own four Volnay village vineyards, all very well placed, but only keep a tiny .2hectate parcel of over 50-year-old vines in Grands Champs, vines which border the superb premier cru Mitans (made famous by de Montille).
In an article in the Burgundy Report in 2016, they explained, “We make wines here to keep, so we are currently only commercialising our 2010s.”
This 2012, from a vintage perfectly balanced for aging, is a current release, too. Indeed, (and unsurprisingly given the vineyard location, vine age and classic winemaking style), this 2012 Volnay is still a bit full, firm and concentrated.
It was the best of the four vintages (2010 to 2013) that the Burgundy Report reviewed: “Round, more concentrated, a growing intensity too. Fine red fruit, a little more tannin, some reductive flavour too. A nice extra dimension of flavour in the mid-palate to finish.”
This is a serious Volnay – and certainly as good as many if not most premier crus. That it can still be had for only $29.99 is quite frankly astonishing.
We have a couple of cases in now, with more coming in next Wednesday.
If you love real red Burgundy – or just want to see what it’s all about – do not miss that rare opportunity.