From a vineyard planted in 1938, therefore with thick-skinned berries, the 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Achleiten Stockkultur displays a very deep, pure and stony bouquet with herbal, almost ether flavors on gneiss rocks. Very intense and concentrated on the palate, with a lovely juicy fruit and lots of salt and stones, this is a very elegant, salty, highly complex and expressive Veltliner of great elegance, finesse and complexity. it is perfectly balanced and very long.
95 points Vinous:
Smoky tobacco, hazelnut, orange zest, quinine and buddleia add pungently bittersweet appeal to scents and succulence of ripe quince, white peach and mirabelle. Lush, full, and palpably high-extract, yet infectiously juicy, the palate boasts seductive inner-mouth perfume and benefits from the stimulating counterpoint supplied by peach fuzz and peach kernel as well as from alkaline, stony and mouthwateringly saline mineral nuances. This finishes with terrific vibrancy and dynamic complexity, not to mention sheer persistence. And although glowing with intensity, it remains heat-free. As Bodenstein is fond of pointing out, it isn’t just the unique genetic mix of ancient vines that distinguishes this parcel; its soil exhibits a very different structure and geological origin than that which prevails in most of the Achleiten.