Charvin is one of the most
traditional (fermenting with the stems, for instance) and certainly brilliant
producers of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I’d equate his wines to those of Bruno
Giacosa in Barolo. So ravishingly pure and complex they can seem almost
deceptively light when young, but aging to a uniquely profound splendor.
Vinous rates this the best
Charvin ever and one of the top five Chateauneufs of the vintage:
ruby-red. Sexy, highly perfumed raspberry, boysenberry and floral pastille
scents are complemented by hints of musky rhubarb and Asian spices.
Palate-staining sweet red and blue fruit and spicecake flavors show power as
well as superb vivacity thanks to a spine of juicy acidity. The floral quality
comes back emphatically on a strikingly long, sappy finish shaped by smooth,
slow-mounting tannins. This might be the finest wine to emerge from this estate
that I have ever tasted, and I've had some pretty amazing ones over the years.
A rare Chateauneuf that can
stand proudly beside Grand Cru red Burgundy. And for the great classic it is,
still a bargain.