99 points from
oyster shell with touches of green apple, orchard flowers and a lovely streak
of minerality on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied, bright, alive with a
slight chalkiness. There’s a lovely fabric to this wine. Tightly knit with
subtle fruits interwoven with a tension which I find difficult to express in
words. More a sense of completeness. The simplicity is quite breathtaking and
rare to find these days. Tensile, reserved and unapologetically a personal
expression of Paul & Gilli who are obsessed with producing wines which they
love, rather than following fashions. I believe this to be one of those wines
which will create much argument. Those edging toward flamboyance may show
disdain, whereas those wishing to seek out ethereal
balance and gracefulness will be swooning. I would argue this must be one of
the greatest exponents of Australian Chardonnay I have come across and cannot
wait to see how this individualist wine unfolds over the coming years.
Regardless of which camp you stand in – May I suggest you, at the very least,
try a Tassie Chardonnay which flirts with perfection (if only once).
Aussie writer Todd
texture are the key to the 2017 Sailor Seeks Horse
Chardonnay, with yields down by 15 % this vintage. A more fine-boned and
chiselled wine is the result, with white nougat, corella pear and faint citrus
all built into a structured, muscular palate. The wine stretches out in the
second half and its architecture tells you that this is something special. The
length and drive at the finish will ensure it ages superbly. This is a step up
from the previous two vintages and confirms and enhances the special nature of
this site and producer. Highly recommended.
As artisanal – and
as scintillatingly sublime – as New World Chardonnay gets. Give this this stuff
over Kistler or Kongsgaard any day!
I also like this
that the label says “Owned, grown & made by Paul & Gilli Lipscombe.”
How it should be.